RICE CAKE AND DUMPLING SOUP (DDUK MANDU GUK)

It is tradition in Korea to eat this soup for the Lunar New Year. I recommend using my Oxtail Soup as the base, but for a quick version, shop-bought chicken broth and frozen dumplings will do. You can also lose the dumplings and double the amount of rice cakes to make rice cake soup (dduk guk).

Ingredients

SERVES 4

  • 1 tsp vegetable oil
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 large eggs, lightly beaten with a splash of water
  • 2 litres (31⁄2 pints) Oxtail Soup
  • 24 Meaty Dumplings
  • 125 g (41⁄2 oz) meat picked from the oxtails from Oxtail Soup, shredded (optional)
  • 225 g (8 oz) sliced rice cakes (dduk), soaked in cold water for 15–30 minutes and then drained
  • Large handful of spring onions, thinly sliced on an angle
  • Large handful of julienned roasted seaweed (kim)
  • Roasted sesame seeds

 

Method

  1. In a medium non-stick frying pan, heat the oil over a medium heat. Beat a pinch of salt into the eggs and add them to the pan, swirling to evenly coat the base. Cook for 2 minutes, without touching, until the egg is set but just barely browned on the base. Flip and continue to cook for a further 15–20 seconds until the base is set, again trying not to get too much colour on the egg. Slide onto a chopping board, cut into thirds and cut crossways into thin strips. Set the egg strips aside.
  2. In a large pot, bring the soup to the boil over a high heat. Add the dumplings, stirring gently so they don’t stick to one another and simmer for 4 minutes (a little longer if the dumplings are frozen). Add the oxtail meat (if using) and rice cakes and simmer for a further 2 minutes until the dumplings are cooked through and the rice cakes are soft. They should both float to the top of the soup. Season the soup with salt and pepper, but not too aggressively, as the dumplings have a lot of flavour.
  3. Divide the soup, rice cakes, dumplings and oxtail meat (if using) among 4–6 bowls. Top with the egg strips, spring onions, seaweed and sesame seeds and serve immediately.

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My father was born in 1939 in Chongju, a small coastal village between Sinuiju and Pyongyang, in what is now North Korea. 

In 1945, the communists invaded, and seized his father’s land, forcing them to pack up what they could carry, and flee south with his eight siblings. Even at just six years old, my dad had to haul his share - a small backpack full of fine silk to be used to barter their way onto trains heading south and to buy safe passage through Russian-occupied territory. 

They took a train to Haeju, then crossed the southern border. They escaped under the cover of darkness, wading through the sea’s low tide to Kaesong, which was then part of South Korea. In 1950, the Korean War broke out and my dad’s family fled further and sought refuge on Jeju island. My father was too young to be drafted, but four of his older brothers were enlisted. My dad grew up in a refugee camp on this small volcanic island, which is now ironically a popular holiday destination. He remembers looking up at tall, smartly-clad US soldiers and begging them for ‘bon bons’.

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Happy Father’s Day to my brilliant daddy and all fathers around the world!  My dad continues to inspire me every day.  His formidable spirit, wise advice, and undying love guides me through life…. I hope to be completely healthy too like him at 86 years young! 

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